Popham’s – London Fields (Pasta Restaurant Review)

Written by Monika Faulkner. Photos by Chelsea Simpson.

Popham’s in London Fields is a bakery by day and transforms into a candle-lit pasta restaurant at night. It’s a pretty setting under the railway arches, intimate and quiet, with a warm atmosphere and an open kitchen.

The service was very good. I was half an hour late to meet my friends, but the staff were kind about it and brought our drinks straight away. I had a mocktail, which was enjoyable. I always appreciate when a restaurant puts thought into its non-alcoholic options rather than defaulting to soft drinks or simple spritzes. It shows they care about the craft of making a drink, not just the alcohol behind it.

Starters & Small Plates

We were advised to order a mix of appetisers and small plates before moving onto pasta.

• Goat’s Cheese Croissant Crisp – Very small, so we shared one between two, but it was delicious. The goat’s cheese with the sweetness of apricot jam worked really well, and the layered, croissant-like pastry gave a great texture compared with just a cracker.
• Bread and Butter – Freshly baked (no surprise as it’s a bakery by day). The butter was very salty, which I enjoyed.
• Balsamic Aubergine with Olives and Anchovies – The aubergine was exceptionally smoky and well-cooked. The anchovies didn’t really add anything; another flavour element might have worked better.
• Whipped Feta and Roasted Tomato Crostini – A safe option. The tomatoes were fresh, the feta was good, but it lacked excitement. The fried capers didn’t do much. Some spice, saffron, or fresh herbs could have lifted it.

Pasta

We followed the server’s recommendation and ordered one pasta each.

• Mortadella and Pistachio Pesto Pasta (£17.50) – The pasta was excellent: creamy mortadella, flavourful pistachio, and well-presented individual shapes. The peas didn’t add much. A touch of spice would have been welcome. The problem was the portion: it was more like a half-portion. At this size it felt overpriced, especially as this was one of the cheaper dishes (others were closer to £19). Three pastas between two people would be more realistic.
• Cavatelli with Pollock and Tomato – Tasted good, but the presentation was odd. It came across as more of a stew or broth, with cherry tomatoes floating around, rather than a pasta in sauce. It felt like a winter dish, which was jarring in the middle of summer.

Dessert

• Chocolate Mousse with Cherries, Kirsch and Crème Fraîche – Ironically, the biggest portion of the night. The mousse was rich and airy but still substantial, and I loved the classic chocolate-and-cherry combination. The crème fraîche, however, had a strange sweet-tart balance that didn’t quite work. Chantilly cream or even Greek yoghurt would have paired better.

Practicalities

The biggest downside, aside from portion sizes, is the toilets. They’re not in the restaurant but in the foyer of a block of flats next door. Going there and back takes at least five minutes, which isn’t ideal when you’re leaving your table.

Verdict

The atmosphere was lovely and the food was well-cooked, but the portions were too small for the price. I left hungry and felt it wasn’t good value for money.

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• See also: Popham’s London Fields Review